The tree is a critical component, and the one that is most difficult to reproduce. If you do find one, be aware that the tree came in two different sizes. They are normally marked with "1-2" or with "3-4". The "1-2" tree is for the #246 miter box (and other uncommon miterboxes with the "2" frame size like the #258). As you have probably guessed by now, the "3-4" is for the #358 or #460 miterboxes.
Picture of Components Here
Use:
It was a very good improvement, and it great increases the usefulness
of the miterbox by making repetitive cuts very quick and accurate.
The tree also nicely supports the end of long boards. Two rods are
required for two different reasons. For cuts less than about 10",
the second rod was
Picture of 2 different rod setups here
Length Stop Rods:
The rods are the easist component to replace. Luckily Stanley
used standard 5/16" rods, so you can buy them at any good hardware store
or home center. They should cost just a couple of dollars to replace.
There were two furnished with every miterbox. The lengths are shown
below. Just cut the rods to length and file the ends to bevel the
edges slightly and to remove any burrs.
| Miterbox Type | Approximate Length of Rods |
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Coupler:
The coupler was used to join the two rods back-to-back to allow the
length stop to be used for boards up to about 5 feet long. It's also
a useful accessory, and luckily it is also easily made. You will
need some 5/8" diameter rod from your local homecenter or hobby shop.
Types:
There were two different types of couplers, but the differences are
really trivial. The first version was cast iron & had raised
bosses for the screw. The later type was just a simple round rod.
There's no functional difference between the two types, and the screws
are both the same.
Construction:
This is a pretty easy part to make. The directions are below.
For those of you who do not have the time or inclination to make a coupler,
please email me, as I have made several reproductions of these in the past.
Steps:
Go to your local home center & buy 5/8"diameter steel
Cut steel to length
File the ends smooth
Layout the hole location on the end with a center-finder if you have
one
(it's not critical if the
hole is not exactly on center)
Layout the two screw hole locationsl (use a fine-tipped pencil or permanent
pen)
Centerpunch all three hole locations with a punch
This is very important! Centerpunching keeps the drill bit from wandering when you first start making the hole. You can use an automatic spring-loaded centerpunch if you have one, or any other type of pointed punch with a hammer or even a large nail with a hammer. For best results, don't skip this step!Drill the holes (use a drill press and a vise if you have one)
Other Possible Problems & Solutions:
Missing Coupler Screws:
Option 1:
Luckily, these screws are a standard 1/4-28 thread. You should be able to purchase replacement screws at any good hardware store or home center.Option 2:
Other Stanley tools, notably, the #45, used exactly the same screw, so it is possible to find original replacements. The original screws on the #45 that you will want are the screws that hold the rods to the main body. ( Note: These same screws are also used to hold the miterbox length stop rods to the frame.)Missing Tree Screws:
Option 1:
Luckily, these screws are a standard 1/4-28 thread. You should be able to purchase replacement screws at any good hardware store or home center.Option 2:
Other Stanley tools, notably, the #45, used exactly the same screw, so it is possible to find original replacements. The original screws on the #45 that you will want are the thumbscrews that hold the fence to the rods. The sliding section or depth stop thumbscrews will also work, but they are a little shorter than the originals. The fence thumbscrews are a better replacement.Missing Tree:
Get at the back of the line for an original replacement. This part is commonly missing. A well-formed block of wood or metal would be your best bet to make a useable replacement.